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It was the early 1800s, and Presbyterian minister Sylvester Graham
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believed Americans had a big problem—
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not just with their bodies, but with their souls.
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He argued that overindulgence was fueling their baser desires,
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making them immoral and oversexed.
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To curb this corruption, Graham and fellow puritanical reformers
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advocated for food they thought could curb a variety of appetites.
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Following the American Revolution,
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things like excess alcohol use were increasingly perceived
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as blights on social order and civic virtue in a budding nation.
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The 19th century Christian Temperance movement
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encouraged abstinence from alcohol, eventually leading to federal Prohibition.
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But some branches of the movement promoted even more extreme restraint
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across the board.
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These reformers had some special areas of interest, including the bedroom.
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According to Graham,
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even divinely ordained marital sex could fall into harmfully excessive territory
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if it happened more than once a month.
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And like certain Enlightenment philosophers a century before him,
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Graham considered the so-called solitary vice of masturbation
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even more hazardous.
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He claimed it inflamed the brain and depleted the body's energy,
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causing everything from nervous disorders to stunted growth.
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To address this issue and others,
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Graham recommended measures including plenty of sleep— on hard mattresses;
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regular bathing—with cold water; and fresh air— even in frigid temperatures.
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But one of his major points of focus was diet.
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He thought Americans were consuming decadent, flavorful food and drink
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that threw their bodies out of balance, weakened their self-control,
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and aroused un-Christian passions.
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So to suppress their supposedly hyperactive libidos,
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Graham advocated for a vegetarian diet of whole grains, fruits, and vegetables.
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And it needed to be bland— no pleasure-inciting spices to speak of.
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His signature contribution was Graham bread,
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the precursor to the Graham cracker,
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made from coarse, whole wheat Graham flour.
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He shared the recipe at no cost, encouraging everyone to bake their own.
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It was simple: just add water or milk, yeast, and perhaps a pinch of salt—
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nothing that might overstimulate the senses.
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Positioning himself as a public health advocate,
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Graham wrote books and held public lectures,
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alleging his diet would even help people survive a cholera outbreak.
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However, not everyone was so keen on his moralizing message and tasteless fare—
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including angry bakers who protested outside his talks.
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And Transcendentalist scholar Ralph Waldo Emerson cast doubt
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on the fanaticism of Graham’s movement.
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One newspaper reporter is said to have mockingly dubbed Graham
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a “philosopher of sawdust pudding.”
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And an outraged critic of the Graham diet said it consisted of,
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“swill, starch slosh” and “dishwater.”
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But Graham also inspired ardent followers, who became known as Grahamites.
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Meanwhile, Graham’s focus on digestive health appealed to figures
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like nutritionist James Jackson,
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who ran a health spa in upstate New York.
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Around 1863, Jackson began baking crumbled, granulated Graham flour cakes
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into a cereal he called Granula.
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And, in the 1890s, John Harvey Kellogg, head of another health spa,
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developed corn flakes by steaming, rolling, and baking corn
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into a similarly flavorless food.
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While Jackson was primarily concerned with preventing illness through diet,
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Kellogg continued Graham’s crusade against masturbation.
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He called it “self-abuse,” Implicated it in all manner of ailments,
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and similarly promoted a dull diet to temper overactive sexual appetites.
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But the foods these men popularized would shapeshift
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far beyond their original forms.
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Granola and Corn Flakes underwent a series of saccharine and frosted reinventions.
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And decades after Graham’s death,
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the National Biscuit Company began mass-producing Graham crackers
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with lighter flours and stimulating sweeteners.
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By 1927, people had started sandwiching toasted marshmallows and chocolate
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between Graham crackers,
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which the Girl Scouts christened “Some Mores,”
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and the s’more was born.
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The decadent dessert was essentially the antithesis of Graham’s vision—
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and perhaps the ultimate ironic twist to his legacy.